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Malyovitsa
Region
Pirin
Mountain
Vratsa
Lakatnik
Bojenitsa
Karlukovo
Belogradchik
IceFalls
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Climbing
In Bulgaria there is wide spectrum of different style
climbing areas - alpine rocks, sport rocks, boulders, ice, mix.
At the same time you can chose among granite, limestone, sandstone
rocks and other types of rock.
The main granite climbing area is Malyovitsa - alpine rocks. In
this region you can find routes with length from two pitches to
thirteen. The categories vary between III to IX (UIAA).
Vratsa is limestone-rock climbing area. This is the favorite place
for the climbers because of the easy access and variety of the routes.
The Central Wall is 350m high, traced by 30 routes between six and
fourteen pitches of lenght.
Rila
Mountain - Malyovitsa Region
This mountain is the highest one (2925m) on the Balkan
Peninsula and in the same time it is the largest climbing center
in Bulgaria, especially the region of the mount Malyovitsa (2729m).
In the beautiful alpine valley of pick Malyovitsa there are number
of rock-walls and boulders with many routes of different categories.
Main style of the routes is alpine style that means you need pitons,
nuts and friends for ascend. In that region the rock is mostly granite
and crystal schist. The charm of the area is wild valleys among
rock needles and beautiful lakes. There are huts and chalets providing
easy access to the climbing walls. The routes are accessible in
the winter also.
- Malyovitsa
Wall
Height - 200m. North-East.
Routes of category V+, VI+ (UIAA)
- Dvuglav
Height - 200-500m. South, East.
Routes of category IV+, VI+ (UIAA).
- Elenka
Height - 250m. East.
Routes of category V+, VII- (UIAA).
- Ushite
Height - 200m. South.
Routes of category V+, VIII (UIAA).
- Zliya
Zab
Height - 200m. South-East, North.
Routes of category V+, VIII (UIAA).
- Diavolskite
Igli (Devil's needles)
Height - 100-250m. East, South-East.
Routes of category V+, VIII+, A (UIAA).
- Kuklata
Height - 150m. East.
Routes of category V+, X (UIAA).
- Golyam
Kupen
Height - 150m. South.
Routes of category V-, VI- (UIAA).
- The
Needle
Height - 150-200m. West, South.
Routes of category V-, VII (UIAA).
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Pirin Mountain
Pirin Mountain is thought to be most beautiful mountain
in Bulgaria, and in beauty conquers all other mountains also. Because
of the specific construction of the rocks - marble, marbleized limestone
and granite, the picks are very sharp and the landscape is extremely
picturesque. Sixty of the picks are over 2000m and two of them -
Vihren (2914m - third on the Balkan Peninsula) and Kutelo (2908m),
are over 2900m. Climbing walls are specific and most of them are
more suitable for winter climbing.
- Djengal
Wall
Height - 150m. West. Granite.
Routes of category IV, V+ (UIAA).
- Vihren
Wall
Height - 500m. North. Ronliva.
Routes of category IV, V+ (UIAA).
- Stapalata
Height - 70 - 250m. Marbel rocks.
Routes of category IV, VI+ (UIAA).
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Vratsa
Vratsa Rocks are a part of the Stara Planina Mountain.
This is the biggest limestone climbing-region in Bulgaria. Because
of the easy access and the variety of the routes the area is most
visited especially in the spring and autumn. This area is the best-equipped
big climbing region in Bulgaria. There you will find long alpine
routes (350m) as well as both long and short sport routes. During
resent years have been developed new sport climbing areas. Every
year in the Vratsa Rocks region take place assembly for cleaning
and re-equipping of the old routes as well as lectures on demands
of technical equipping and re-equipping. On the other hand the region
is interest and picturesque.
- Zgorigrad
Wall
Height - 200m.
Routes of category between IV and VII (UIAA).
- Central
Ridge
Height - 45-250m.
Routes of category between IV and VIII (UIAA).
- Central
Wall
Height - 350m.
Routes of category between IV and IX (UIAA).
- Bottom
Central Massif
Height - 80-150m.
Routes of category between III and IX (UIAA).
- Massif
"Zabat" (The Tooth)
Height - 80-120m.
Routes of category between III and IX (UIAA).
- East
Massif
Height - 120-150m.
Routes of category between IV and VIII (UIAA).
- Vrattsata
Height - 50m.
Routes of category between III and IX
(UIAA).
- New
Sport Climbing Area
Height - 30m.
Routes of category between VI and
X+ (UIAA).
The developing is still in process.
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Vitosha
Kuminite - granite rocks
placed near to Sofia.
Height - 50-100m.
Routes of category between VI and IX (UIAA).
Veliko Tarnovo
Although the region was sport climbing area many
years ago, the real development begun with the competition of World
Cup of Climbing in 1989. It is limestone region extremely rich of
various routes of categories between V and X+ (UIAA). There are
two climbing areas: "St.Trinity" Monastery and "Usteto"
well equipped and placed in picturesque valleys. The town of Veliko
Tarnovo is the old capital of Bulgaria and has authentic and beautiful
old part.
Lakatnik
Limestone area near by Sofia town well developed
with many sport routes of category between III and X (UIAA). Both
areas: Vrazhite Dupki and Alpine Meadow are situated in picturesque
Iskar Gorge.
Bojenica
A Sandstone area with routes for free climbing. The
rock material is hard sandstone and quite unusual style of climbing.
There are boulders and rocks with height about 30m. The area is
beautiful and unusual. (! Warning for snakes.)
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Beledie Khan
Limestone area placed in 20min by car from Sofia.
There are about 15 routes with length from 50 -70m. Some of them
are equipped with bolts the other part with pitons. The category
is between 4 -8 (UIAA).
Rousse Areas
In the
three of the gorges of the rivers "Roussenski Lom" near
villages Ivanovo, Besarbovo and Tabatchka there are many routes
equipped with bolts for free climbing. The area is still developing
with new routes with category - 6 - 9 (UIAA). The gorge of the Russenski
Lom River is extremely baeutiful.
Shumen Area
There
are three places for free climbing around the town of Shumen. Both
of them Kyoshkyovete and Divdyadovo areas are equipped with bolts
and Madara is a sandstone rock area where are some routes but not
equipped so well, although the area is very beautiful and interesting
nature phenomena and reservation.
Pleven -
Kailuka
Near the
town Pleven in the park Kailuka there are about 20 routes equipped
with bolts for free climbing. The routes are with length of about
30-40m.
Karlukovo
Karlukovo is mainly caving region but recently there
have been made routes in the upper entrance of the Prohodna Cave
(30m -length) of category between VI and IX (UIAA). The Prohodna
Cave is very picturesque with two natural eyes on the ceiling.
Krushuna
New developing climbing area placed in the amazing
region of the water falls, cascades and the cave -Vodopada. I would
say this is a special place for fun and adventure.
Belogradchik
Sandstone Area
The area is extremely beautiful and offers a
endless possibilities for opening new routes. To this moment many
climbers have climbed there but either on top ropes, either on nut
belays only. There are no routes equipped with bolts still. The
towers and needles are from 30 to 120m of height and area as a whole
is similar to "Meteora " sandstone area in Greece. We
hope that in future it will become a big center of free climbing.
Ice Fall Climbing
There are some waterfalls in Bulgaria, that are very
suitable for ice climbing in the wintertime. Skakavitsa Waterfall
(90m) and Small Skakavitsa Waterfall (20) in Rila mountain, Boyana
Waterfall in Vitosha mountain (45min from Sofia) and Bov Waterfall
in the Iskar Gorge. And not at the last place the North Jandem of
Peak Botev area - offering 4-5 pitches of length vertical ice falls
and cascades.
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